Wednesday 3 July 2013

DIY Baby Jacket

I love making things for my little niece, but she is rather inundated with hand-knitted jumpers from family and friends so my sister asked if I could try sewing her a sweatshirt instead as they were short of those. I couldn't really find any good patterns that were in the right size... so I decided to make my own (it also turned out a little more 'jacket-shaped' than I intended - hence the title of the post!).

I had seen one pattern for a cross-over sweatshirt that was all made from one piece of fabric, it was too small for my niece but it seemed like a much easier way of making a sweatshirt so I started to design my pattern using the same idea.

What you need:

  • another top to get the right size/shape (I bought her a hoody to use but you could use any long-sleeved top - just make sure to make your sweatshirt a bit bigger if you use a t-shirt)
  • paper for your pattern - I often use newspaper for patterns, this time I used kitchen grease-proof paper so that I could trace through (cello-taped together to make it big enough!) or you can use proper pattern paper
  • Fabric - I lined mine so I used 2 different fabrics - one knit and one cotton (I should have used 2 knits to make it stretchy or another stretchy fabric)
  • double fold binding - you can make your own, I actually used some single fold bias binding I had left over and just folded it round
  • buttons, zip or poppers - I used poppers, I wanted a zip but couldn't find an open-ended one in the right size or buttons that I liked enough! Note - if you are using a zip, I suggest sewing that seam first so do not follow this tutorial exactly!
1. First, you need to draw your pattern. 

To do this, lay your top on the centre bottom of your paper and draw round it, then, flip it diagonally along the outside edge of the sleeve. Fold the top in half vertically (as you only want it to come half way across the front on each side) then draw around it again. Repeat on the other side. Unfortunately I don't seem to have a photo of this (I'm sure I took one...) but hopefully the pictures below will be enough of a clue as to how to do it!

Now add seam allowances, and a bit to each side of the front middle where your buttons will be (if you are using a zip, you only need to add a seam allowance here). I would also suggest adding some width to the sleeves as mine ended up a bit tight. Note - I straightened the edges of my pattern using a ruler after I had drawn around the top, this made it easier to sew but I did end up with a quite severe look to the jacket, I would recommend keeping slightly more rounded, unless you want a jacket shape. Then think about the shape of your neckline, I made mine a v-neck, making sure the 2 sides would overlap but this depends on your fastening.

Cut out your pattern, it should look something like this:


2. Cut fabric

Pin your pattern to your fabric and cut around it, do this with the lining and the outer fabric. You should have 2 pieces the same.



3. Sew arm and side seams

Fold the outer piece right sides together and sew along the bottom of the arm and the side seam on each side using whatever seam allowance you drew into your pattern. Do the same with the lining (remember the right side of the lining will be the inside of the jacket). Trim seams and cut a slit at the corner (shown in photo) to make sure it lies right once all sewn together.



4. Add any details to the front.

At this point you need to add an pockets/pictures etc. to the front before you sew in the lining. I went with a little pocket on one side and a cat on the other (my niece's first word was 'cat').

Pocket - cut a small rectangle, bind the top edge, fold in other edges (I cut little triangles off the corners to make them sit nicely), sew onto jacket.




Cat - I drew a cat on grease-proof paper first then cut it out of the lining fabric. I used embroidery thread to make the face then used a zig-zag stitch around the edge to attach it to the front of the sweatshirt.



5. Put lining inside sweatshirt. Make sure to pull the sleeves through and line up the seams. I didn't sew this in until I did the binding.



6. Bind. Pin and sew binding along the bottom edge first (I did the neck and front first but that looked wrong where they met and I had to add an ugly extra bit of binding to the corner).



Then pin and sew binding along the front and neck, ease it around the curves, it will be hard to pin and it will look like it won't lie flat, but it does work out when you sew it!



Finally, you need to bind the sleeves, this is probably the hardest bit. I ended up tacking my binding on to get it in the right place then sewing it. This would probably have been easier if I'd had wider sleeves (another reason to add some allowance to your pattern, along with having to get baby arms in and out!).


And you're done! Mine definitely isn't perfect, but for my first attempt, I'm proud of it. And it looks cute on!



I later sewed a little mouse out of felt and gave it a plaited wool tail that attached into the pocket so the mouse could come in and out of the pocket. I didn't manage to get this done in time before I gave her the jacket (I wanted to give it to her on her 1st birthday) so I did it later and sent it to my sister to add in so I don't have photos of it on the jacket.